Summer 2016
1.
Arpège egg
2.
Watermelon tartare
3.
BLT consommé
4.
Camouflage
5.
Crispy mussel tumbleweed
6.
Crayfish with scrambled egg
7.
Fillet of venison with dates
8.
Green tea air; sweet potato; etc
9.
Quail egg
1.
Arpège egg
The renowned French chef Alain Passard created one of his simplest yet most famous dishes from an egg in an eggshell. Its success comes from its elegance and flavour balance, and belies its apparent simplicity. The name comes from his restaurant – L’Arpège.
An egg is topped and its contents removed. The membrane is removed (ideally), or left and the air sac broken. The yolk is separated and returned to the cleaned shell.
The shell and yolk are carefully floated in a water bath (80C) for 75-90s to warm the yolk. The yolk lowers the centre of gravity and the shells stay upright.
The warmed yolk is topped with chives, sea salt and ground ginger, then covered with a whipped sherry cream (it’s over whipped in the picture). Finally, a few drops of maple syrup are added. These combinations are an adaption, and a homage, by David Kinch.
[David Kinch]
2.
Watermelon tartare
Compression and dehydration can completely change the texture of plant matter. In this case, watermelon was brined then vacuum-compressed to expel air in the cells. It was then dehydrated to achieve a meaty texture and finally recompressed with a little water to adjust hydration. It was diced and combined with chopped nuts and spring onions.
Served with a parmesan crisp and dressed with balsamic/EVOO. Finally, the plate was sprayed with balsamic vinegar, and some drops of fig-balsamic added.
[Adapted from Antoni Luis Aduriz]
3.
BLT consommé
A three-part consommé.
Pancetta was browned and cooked with water in a pressure cooker, strained, cooled, fat removed and the stock reserved with a few drops of liquid smoke. Tomatoes were frozen, chopped and thawed over a muslin-lined strainer to catch the tomato water. Kale was juiced. All three combined. Flavours remained separate and distinguishable.
[Adapted from chefsteps.com]
4.
Camouflage
Chicken liver pâté (flavoured with white port, madeira and calvados) spread in a thin square layer on a small (8cm) bathroom tile. It was camouflaged with earth-coloured powders: Steamed, dehydrated and ground celeriac and parsnip; blanched, dehydrated and ground herbs (mint, parsley, basil); ground dried porcine mushrooms; burnt vegetable ash; muscovado sugar and spices (cinnamon, star anise, pepper, juniper berries)
[Adapted. Concept: Massimo Bottura. Pâté: chefsteps.com]
5.
Crispy mussel tumbleweed
Veal belly cooked sous vide (80C 10h) and shredded. Veal belly is naturally fibrous (as is pork belly), but lean. The fibres are deep fried and assembled in a loose ball (tumbleweed). Cooked mussels are combined with tarragon and blended, while oil is added in a thin stream to make an emulsion. The emulsion is piped into the ball.
[René Redzeppi]
6.
Crayfish with scrambled egg
Buttery, creamy sous vide scrambled eggs are light and an excellent match for crayfish (also cooked sous vide). The unavailability of roe led to mussel juice (left over from the cooked mussels in the previous course) being spherified to resemble roe. The crayfish head, browned with little tomato paste and pressure cooked with ginger and spring onions, comprised the bisque. Served with black salt and kaffir lime shreds.
Successful flavours but a plating failure.
7.
Fillet of venison with dates
Pressure cooked sherry, water and dates – strained; Sous vide venison fillet (52C 1h); buttery garlic endive; fermented black garlic; dates; fried thyme.
[Adapted from David Kinch]
8.
Green tea air; sweet potato; etc
Coconut cream fluid gel (coconut cream set with gelatine then pureed) with compressed and diced mango covered in a matcha (green tea powder) foam with mint. Sweet potato leather and mascarpone biscuit.
[Adapted from chefsteps.com]
9.
Quail egg
The last course was an apparently raw quail egg. In reality, the yolk was spherified passionfruit juice and the white was thickened lemon/lime juice. Serving in the shell amplified the illusion. Still convincing when tipped onto a spoon:
In fact, too convincing for one guest.
Satisfying and refreshing flavours – ending the meal, just as it started, with an egg in an eggshell.
[chefsteps.com]
Bonus image to finish with – the cleaned and topped shells floating in water and waiting to be filled…
